'The Snake Mite' - Ophionyssus natricis
Biology, Diagnosis, Treatment and Prevention

 

The Biology Bit....

Ophionyssus natricis more commonly known as the 'snake mite' was first identified but Gervais in 1944. This spherical shaped deep red or black ectoparasite is a problem within many reptile collections. With adults measuring 0.6 - 1.3 mm, they appear to the naked eye as little more than a walking speck of dust but under the microscope is a different story. Their body structure shows two dorsal plates; one oval shape, covering most of the upper body in unfed individuals, the other is dorsal to the anal plate and smaller in size.

The lifecycle takes place between 13 and 19 days with five developmental stages, egg, larva, protonymph, deutonymph and adult. In the optimum environment, warm and humid with temperatures around 25°C, a female mite is capable of producing dozens of eggs in her lifetime. With the vivarium been a fantasic breeding ground and the mites being very active, simply walking from vivarum to vivarium an infestation can spread rapidly through an entire reptile collection.

Does my snake really have mites?

The mites burrow under the scales of the snake and attach themselves using specially adapted mouth parts. Scales appear 'roughed-up' where the mites have penetrated beneath the scales, so you will need to closely inspect the animal to see. Animals that have mite infestations may spend increased amounts of time soaking in water. A good, quick way to check if a snake has mites is to looking closely inside the water bowl every day, the drowned mites will lie at the bottom of the water and can be clearly visible. Another way to check is by wiping it down from head to tail with a piece of damp white tissue and then examining this for the mites themselves.

Ahhh....My Snake has mites, what should I do now?

There are several choices of treatment available but before you decide on that you need to get your snake in a more clinical environment. A plastic tub, such as the 'Really Useful Box', is ideal. Line this with white (so you can better see the mites) kitchen towel and do not use any decorations, only a water bowl and, if needed, a resin hide. If you have other snakes or reptiles in the same area then check those for mites, the chances are they will be infested too.

Treatments....

There are several different treatments available to use, I will cover each of the ones I have tried. All the animals should then be treated at the same time using a suitable formula or medication, accompanied by daily disinfection and the snakes environment should be treated with a reptile-safe insecticide.

Frontline

Frontline spray is a broad spectrum, non-systemic, insecticide commonly used to treat fleas, ticks and lice in dogs and cats. It is not licensed for use in reptiles but it frequently used as an effective mite control treatment. It is a 'prescription only medicine' and therefore can only be purchased from your vet or with a prescription from your vet.

Frontline spray is very powerful and should be used in a well ventilated area away from your reptiles and any fish tanks/birds/other animals. It is excellent to clean the animals housing and surrounding areas, this will kill any roaming mites.

Frontline Method:

  1. Remove all decorations, substrate, water bowls from the housing. Throw away the substrate and any porous items.
  2. Soak the remaining decorations and water bowls in a good quality, high concentration disinfectant. Ensure everything is totally covered in water. This will drown the mites.
  3. In a well ventilated area, away from other animals, clean the animals housing. Firstly with disinfectant and then use the frontline spray, making sure you get into all corners.
  4. Leave to air, with the doors or lid open.

Ideally the snake should be housed in a plastic tub or vivarium, some snakes are housed like this. If the snake is not going into the same housing then prepare this now, use white kitchen towel and a resin hide, do not add the water bowl at this time if you are treating the snake. If the snake is going back into the same housing

     5.     When there is no smell of the frontline left in the housing, this can be prepared and the snake returned. Use white kitchen towel and a resin hide. Do not return the water bowl if you are treating the snake.

I personally would not recommend using frontline spray on the snake, although some people have used this effectively. DO NOT spray directly onto the snake. Spray the frontline onto a damp cloth, it is advised one pump per foot of snake, and wipe over the snake. When you return the snake back to the housing ensure that the water bowl is removed for a minimum of 12 hours.

Hypoaspis Mites

Hypoaspis mites are a predatory mite; they work by killing all snake mites, and their eggs. After the snake mites are gone they will die of starvation. Hypoaspis mites require a relatively high humidity to survive, they need to be placed in a 'soil' substrate and you will need to spray the environment a few times. These are good for large collections where a clinical environment is not possible. You will need to place some of the mites in each vivarium. They are a natural way to kill the mites and are good for people that do not wish to use pesticides. It does take longer than the other methods but is an effective way to treat mites if you wish to use a non chemical form.

Ardap/Provent A Mite

I have not used provent a mite but I have successfully used Ardap, they both work in the same way. They are used to treat the enclosure but is not safe for use on the animal. The spray kills, on contact, any mites and protects the enclosure for up to 6 weeks, this long enough to defeat the life cycle. It should be used in a well ventilated area away from any fish, invertebrates or amphibians.

Ardap/Provent A Mite method

  1. Remove all decorations, substrate, water bowls from the housing. Throw away the substrate and any porous items.
  2. Soak the remaining decorations and water bowls in a good quality, high concentration disinfectant. Ensure everything is totally covered in water. This will drown the mites.
  3. In a well ventilated area, away from other animals, clean the animals housing with disinfectant. Then use the spray, making sure you get into all corners.
  4. Leave to air, with the doors or lid open.

2.     When there is no smell of the spray left in the housing, this can be prepared and the snake returned. Use white kitchen towel and a resin hide. Do not return the water bowl for a minimum of 12 hours.

We successfully use Ardap as a preventative method, see below.

Treating the snake.....

If you do not wish to treat the snake with chemicals there are a few methods you can use.

Water:

  1. Get a tub with secure lid; make sure it is large enough to fit the snake in.
  2. Fill with luke warm water.
  3. Add a very small amount of washing up liquid, to break the water tension.
  4. Place the snake in the tub and secure the lid. Make sure the snake cannot get out of the water but has enough room to breathe.
  5. Leave 20-30 minutes, keep checking on the snake, do not leave unattended.
  6. Remove the snake from the water and wipe down.

The majority of the mites on the snake should have been drowned, repeat this every other day. Place into a temporary clinical environment and treat the snakes normal accommodation for mites.

Olive Oil:

  1. Coat the snake in a think covering of olive oil. Leave no area uncovered.
  2. Place in an empty tub for 20 - 30 minute, keep checking the snake, do not leave unattended.
  3. Remove the snake and wipe down.

Repeat this every other day. Place into a temporary clinical environment and treat the snakes normal accommodation for mites.

Prevention is better than cure....!!

We began using Ardap last year as a preventative method against mites, the spray remains active for 6 weeks and is safe to use on newspaper. We use newspaper as substrate in all our accommodation and we simply treat the newspaper with ardap spray prior to placing. The newspaper is sprayed outside and left to dry for a few hours, the accommodation is then cleaned and disinfected before the treated paper is used. We find this very effective and haven't seen a mite since using this method.

 

   © Rebecca Lindsay

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